Moscow - The Big M

One of the things about Moscow that is immediately apparent is its size. It took about an hour for the train to go through the suburbs and arrive at, surprisingly enough, Kazanskiy Station. (I should spend half this blog talking about Russian trains, and train etiquette but that is another story.) Having collected my bag, which wasn’t difficult because this was a train, not a plane, I went in search of the nearest Metro station, Komsomolskaya. As I’d slept poorly due to the heat, I strolled right past it in my hunt for a sign-board.
Looking at the station plane, I realised my mistake, walked back out onto the main platform and down into the Metro, with the intention of getting a ticket or ten. My Russian must have improved, because it only took two attempts to make myself understood – go me. Then came the hard part, finding the right platform. I wasn’t completely uninformed – I knew that Komsomolskaya was on the Circle Line and one other, but the platforms themselves are a fair distance underground. Anybody who has used The Tube knows the deepest station in London. It is shallow compared to Moscow (or St-P., which has the deepest average in the world). I descended into the bowels of the earth. Along with several thousand Muscovites on their morning commute.
Every Metro system around the world is the same: two quays, one up one down, at which trains arrive, people get off, people get on (usually at the same time) and after a short pause the train departs. And of course, newcomers will suffer from Murphy’s Law and make their first journey the wrong way; which I did. I realised my mistake halfway between two following stations clockwise that I was going the wrong way, got out at Taganskaya, walked to the other quay and went back in the anti-clockwise to Novoslobodskaya, where I got out, changed to another line, changed station names, and continued on to Dmitrovskaya, where I got out, rode the escalator back up from the bowels of the earth and met my friend, Muscovy Alex.
He was waiting with his mum, and the three of us went to my cheap, by Moscow standards, hotel, where I checked in, filled in the ubiquitous police registration form, borrowed 4500RR off Alex to pay for the room (2 nights, breakfast included) and went to the bank to repay Alex. It was Friday, and the bank queue took longer than the hotel fluffing, but eventually I was armed with enough money to do some damage. We then went touring. Alex knows my hobbies, so after a Metro ride to Sokol’niki station, we found a very good model shop. Kaching, 500RR spent. Then to another suburb, where we did a quick tour of an outside exhibition at a military museum.
Alex had arranged to meet his girlfriend at another Metro station, before we all went to lunch, so we had a wee rest before going to Yolki Palki for smorgasbord lunch. Yolki Palki is a chain of restaurants specialising in Russian cuisine, and well worth the visit. Delicious – not just borsch and sour cream. During lunch somebody dragged out a bottle of cognac and insisted we drink. Alex’s mum insisted on paying for lunch, and after demolishing my fair share of food, we waddled out, caught the Metro to Dynamo Stadium and did some more shopping. One of the interesting things about Russia is you will find little markets anywhere, and discovering one outside Dynamo Stadium was a joy.
By now it was getting late and I was starting to flag, so we headed back to my hotel, all the while being reminded of personal safety on the Metro. Apparently pickpockets are a major problem, and reducing temptation is a good idea. As is not getting your trouser cuffs caught in the escalator (I didn’t) and a number of other warnings. I’d ridden the Metro enough times now to spot the best carriages to get a seat, first or last, as well as understand the announcements (doors closing, following station..., respected passengers don’t forget your stuff). Got back to the hotel and promptly fell asleep.
Saturday, I headed to the main military museum at Victory Park. Victory Park is also the deepest Metro station in the world. It cheats because it’s under a hill, but the escalator ride takes forever. Of course, the weather had changed and I had intermittent drizzle. Not a problem inside the museum, but a bit of a nuisance outside as I toured the machinery of war. The collection was smaller than I expected, but still impressive. Pity I didn’t have time to go to Kubinka, where there are sheds full of the stuff. Then on to Red Square.
How could I go to Russia, to Moscow, and not go to Red Square? Impossible. The weather had improved, and I was able to photograph many famous landmarks without getting wet. Red Square is a pedestrian precinct and you can stroll around, find the best spot to capture the moment and so forth without worrying about cars, buses or trams getting in the way. There is also GUM, which takes up most of one long side of the plaza, and is now expensive shopping boutiques in a very, very large but pretty building. Lenin’s Mausoleum is smaller than I imagined, and the walls of the Kremlin are higher than I expected. Go there!!!
My feet were saying enough, and I was kind of hungry, not having had anything to eat since breakfast, so I decided to go to the hotel and then search for dinner. Got back to my street, and changed plans. The hotel could wait. Alex had recommended Pancho Pizza, a Mexican-Italian restaurant nearby, and I got a table for one in the no smoking section. Halfway through my main and who walk in: Alex’s mum and dad. I’m recognised, and immediately I’m at a table for three and dinner is now being paid for by my new mum. I love that woman. I also had to eat another main. Once more I waddle around Moscow. Because now we are sight-seeing at night, on the monorail.
The monorail is the slowest part of the Metro system, with an average speed of not much. But it gives some great views of northern Moscow, and as it was dark, by night. Took some more photos, thanked my hosts, staggered home, fell asleep.
Sunday I decided to walk from Dmitrovskaya to Sokol’niki – it’s not that far on the map – and photograph interesting monuments, buildings, etc., on the way. Got off to a bad start by walking the wrong way for 5 minutes before I spotted my mistake. Cursed myself for not thinking about this the easy way: Stalin’s Wedding Cake is in the middle of Moscow. It’s one of the tallest buildings and I should have been aiming at, not away, from it. Mistake corrected, I passed several edifices worth shooting, and confirmed my progress on street maps displayed at the bus stops.
My Russian had improved to the point where I was able to give somebody else directions, ask directions and understand them on Saturday, and even get complimented at a shop on speaking good Russian (Friday). However, it was not up to, “rain, rain, go away, come again another day”. Drizzle started about halfway through my peregrinations, and came and went and came again the closer I got to Sokol’niki. I gave in and dragged out the umbrella Galina had lent me. Looked a bit poofy, but I wasn’t getting wet. Well, not from the rain. At one point, a street cleaner went passed and my legs got sprayed.
I’d spotted a nice old church at Sokol’niki, and by the time I got there, the drizzle had turned to rain. But the photographing continued. I was also somewhat tired, as I’d walked for 3 hours, and was carrying my bag. I was taking the scenic route to Kazanskiy Station. I rested a bit, then gave in and jumped on the Metro. I got to Komsomolskaya, and decided to tour the Metro. I remember that there was a track over the Moscow River. I went looking. Ha, bloody tracks got put underground sometime in the 50’s, but it helped kill a couple of hours. After inspecting a number of stations and finally remembering that bridge fact, I emerged at Kazanskiy station. 6 hours till my train back to Kazan. Outside the station, and inspect the scenery. It was worth the energy. And just before I took my last shot it started raining again. That’s why it was my last shot. I took refuge back in the station, read a bit, then back outside for some night shots. I read some more, got bored and decided I could wait on the platform; there was only an hour to go.
Next post: Trains.